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Be jaded, be absent minded, be selectively attentive, but the third time you hear something, listen. Do this, and you may find yourself cruising down an arrow-straight length of Highland Avenue in Cheshire — like a bookmark holding its place at the midpoint between Waterbury and Meriden — and see nothing in particular, until you do.
Viron Rondo Osteria is bold. The first impression is someone has chosen to place the clubhouse of a country club on a long valley road dotted with low, commercial buildings. The scale of the restaurant is striking. On a perfect Thursday evening when I visit after taking some advice this spring, people have flocked there.